Tokyo/Imperial Palace

 

My time in Seoul allowed me to reconnect with myself. I turned over rocks and explored deep in the soil of my subconscious and I realized something new.  I don't travel to see new and interesting things, to explore the unexplored. For me travel is about building a deeper connection with myself and with the people I meet along the way. This explains my difficult first month in Tokyo. I have no problem going places by myself, but I'm going there because I want to meet new people. Tokyo became a source of joy for me after I built a community. And after my time in Fukuoka my love of Tokyo was growing even stronger because one of my best friends from college was coming to visit me.

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I had been saving many places that I wanted to see in Tokyo for Sejan's arrival. High among the list was the Imperial Palace. The palace sits on the grounds of the old Edo Castle. Before Tokyo became the capital, the honors go to Kyoto. It wasn't until 1868 that the emperor even moved from Kyoto to Tokyo.  The grounds are encloused in a huge moat with different areas inside like the palace grounds where the royal family lives as well as numerous gardens. 

The sun greeted us intensely as we made our way from the train platform up to the East Gardens of the Imperial Palace. I heard this place is gorgeous during cherry blossom season. The land was well manicured and there was even an area that contained one tree for each of the 47 prefectures of Japan. 

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You can also learn about the history of the grounds themselves and how their use has evolved overtime. The photo above is from inside of a guard house. After making our way around the gardens we attempted to explore the royal palace itself. I should have known something was up because there is no way to get to the palace from the garden so we walked around the moat that enshrines the totality of the grounds. The moat was really pretty and the grass sweeping down to the water made for a good picture as the city looms in the background.  

There were no signs listing which way was the fastest route to the Palace so I pulled up Google Maps and found the closest bridge from the street across the moat. Sejan and I began walking there, however when we arrived the gate was closed so we walk to the next bridge. That gate was closed as well so we continued walking around the perimeter of the moat.  By the time we got to the main gate we had essentially walked 5 kilometers. Unfortunately, we were not rewarded for our efforts because you can only explore the palace grounds on specific days of the year and through tours. This is why you should always do your research.

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Tired and hungry we wandered away to nearby Ginza and found this cute hawaiian themed restaurant where I ordered a tuna salad that was amazing!

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Fukuoka

 

 

The Sea of Japan was calm as the boat made its way to Fukuoka. Black and white captions scrolled across the screen of the nearest television. An image of Trump cut to an image of Kim Jong-un before a news commentator appeared. I pressed my head against the cold glass happy that I hadn't missed the boat to Japan.  I was even happier that I made the trip across the sea in the first place. A dose of media hysteria made me afraid to leave Japan. However, in South Korea I was greeted with calm not paranoia. My time away from the states made me forget how over exxagerated the news coverage can be.

Even though I had just gotten used to the rhythym of my life in Tokyo I knew I needed a break. I am a firm believer that frequent breaks from your environment helps you to appreciate it so much more. For me, that was reconnecting to why I love travel in the first place.  My time exploring South Korea gave me just enough distance to return to Japan with a mission and a drive I hadn't felt since the plane took off from Newark Airport all those months ago. 

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Taking the ferry had many advantages over a direct flight from Tokyo to Seoul. I got to explore the city of Busan- aka South Korea's answer to San Francisco very briefly. As well I was taking two days to explore a small city called Fukuoka which rests on the island of Kyushu, the most southern of the main islands of Japan. But most importantly I didn't have to worry about any liquid limits and bought a ton of Korean skin care products.

Thankfully Fukuoka greeted me with sun and clouds as opposed to the intense rain storm that greeted me on the first leg of my journey.  I was told that Fukuoka was known for a very intense pork ramen called hakata ramen. So my first stop after checking into my hostel was a big bowl of ramen. I was so hungry and tired from my marathon travels but trust me when I say I ate the most rich bowl of ramen in my life.

I had always hoped that the sadness which clouded the beginning of my time in Tokyo would lift and that I would develop an appreciation of the city even as I grew to realize that Tokyo was not able to give me what I needed. Those dreams were true the morning I woke up in Fukuoka. I had half a day to explore the city before heading back to Tokyo which I had begun to consider my home. Tokyo was so clear to me and I couldn't wait to take advantage of all that it had to offer.  My original plan was to go to the Wisteria gardens and take some self portraits there. However, I was more tired than I anticipated and instead decided to keep it local. I ate some udon from a shop across from my hostel and then made my way to Ohori Park.

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Ohori Park opened in 1929 and was modeled after the West Lake of China. This park is beautiful and a great place to relax by the water. What I really loved about it was the beautiful stone bridges that cut their way through the middle of the lake. 

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The main attraction is this stunning vermillion structure that juts off the edge of the mini islands. The city surrounds it and its really pretty.  After wandering around the park you can also see the ruins of an old castle. I wish I had more time to explore Fukuoka and Japan. My tourist visa meant that I had to choose between traveling deeply or broadly. The only Japanese cities I planned on exploring besides Tokyo was Nara, Kyoto, and Fukuoka. I choose deep because I really wanted to create community and art in Tokyo which can only grow from a consistent time in one place. The choice of depth was a success even though I had to change my initial vision of what success meant to me.  

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Fashion Meditation V

 

I awoke in a 6 person mixed gender hostel dorm in Hongdae, Seoul. A dim light made its way through the flimsy curtain and cast a solitary beam into the room. My plan was to wear my favorite dress during my first day in Seoul; I was going to explore royal palaces and an old village. Unlike Tokyo, where I still had a month and a half to explore the city, I was on a really tight schedule in Seoul.  

I've been lucky to build a queer community in Tokyo. However, as I was getting dressed that morning under the pale light I was suddenly shaken by the overwhelming heterosexuality of my environment. I was unsure if I would have to spend the rest of my time in Seoul talking to people about the complexity of gender- justifying my humanity. 

The dress I wore on my first day, above, is from Eastern Market in DC. You saw it briefly when I was Bernal Heights in San Francisco. I couldn't wait to bust this dress out while I was in Seoul. I thought the pattern and fit who look so well against the strong forms of Korean architecture. When I first saw it among the racks the pattern drew me in. Then I noticed the skirts unique asymmetrical hem and I was sold. My lip is in one of my favorite shades <3 of Stone by Coloured Raine. 

Despite the fact that the LGBTQ community has its own internal issues: racism, misogyny, erasure of trans people, white washing history, homonationalism, etc. ; I still feel comfortable in spaces marked as gay or queer. In that moment while I stood in that dorm debating over whether to put on my dress or my jeans I decided to not be guided by fear. Navigating my personal safety in a culture of travel where the default is cis-heterosexual and white will be difficult but I refused to hide. I decided to shine as brightly as ever. My philosophy is that by showing who you really are you will attract the people who are meant to be in your life and repel the ones who don't.

I continued to rock my bright lipsticks and in this look, taken in a flower garden at one of the smaller Royal Palaces of Seoul, I'm wearing my favorite skirt- the Kaya from Eloquii. This skirt is so versatile I can dress it up with a shirt that has buttons or in this instance I dressed it down with a really cute t-shirt I got from Uniqlo. Uniqlo has a collection of graphic art prints that I have been purchasing every summer. I turned the shirt into a crop myself and I think the resulting silhouette is amazing. My lip is again from Coloured Raine and it's a gorgeous shade of purple called Kiss Me.

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Despite grounded in the daily reality of the murder of trans and gender queer femmes I had no need to be worried. The people I encountered during my stay in Seoul were from all around the world and really cool. I'm hoping this kind of response is what I get throughout the rest of my travels. Which is to say that the bar is set really low. Living my life the only way I know how hopefully opens up the minds of the people I meet to the complexity of gender. Not just so they treat other trans and gnc people with respect but so they can begin to unlearn what they have been taught.

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Ihwa Mural Village

 

Bits of blue paint shown faintly through the haphazard gray above it on one of the steep narrow stairwells that line the Ihwa Mural Village.  I had hoped the news reports I read weren't true but the famed mural of koi fish that once swam their way up these stairs had been painted over by an angry resident in the middle of the night in 2016. 

While walking through the Ihwa Mural Village I noticed a lot of the same signs that I saw in the Bukchon Hanok Village. Plastered on the sides of walls in various states of decay were pleas to be quiet. So often as tourists we forget that people are living their full lives in the spaces that we exist in only partially. 

In 2006, the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism transformed a poor neighborhood in Jongo, Seoul into the Ihwa Mural Village- a new site for art and tourism. I along with many other tourists walked our way up a series of hills to snap picks with these beautiful pieces of art.  You can see a couple of examples below. However, with this new beautification came a lot of foot traffic and complaining from local residents prompting angry locals to vandalize not one but two iconic pieces of art. 

 

In addition to the murals, there are a lot of new and cool shops and cafes have sprung up around the increased traffic. One shop has this beautiful view of downtown Seoul- as can be seen below. If I had more than a week in Seoul I definitely would have come back with a book and some tea. There was quiet a crowd when I was there but one owner stated in the Korea Herald that his business was down 35% since the vandalism occurred. 

Meandering through the different areas in the mural village I thought back to my home of DC and how pushes to make poor areas economically viable often comes at the expense of local residents. I understand deeply how you can feel unheard as they make your neighbordhood better for everyone but you. I'm not sure whats best on a strucutral policy level but what I do know is that while traveling I hope to give more then I take. 


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An Archive of Softness

 

In late 2015 this photography series was created, like me, under a different name. And, after a period of thought and reflection, I've decided to change it from Black Femme Magic to An Archive of Softness. My inspirations have changed over the years but the seed that this project has blossomed into was always there.

I met Sydney Daviston outside of a large American military base in Itaewon, Seoul. We walked away from bustling streets and explored the quieter alleys. A post on a Seoul artist Facebook group connected us. Sydney felt that "most of the 'representation' we have is negative and even harmful, so I wanted to see more positive and badass examples of black women and femmes." At its core, my photo series has always been about changing the visual language around marginalized and under represented people. Fashion photography is the lens through which my models and I fight back against their absence and vilification in the media. 

Issues of representation take on even more complex dimensions as a black person living abroad. Sydney and I talked about what it was like in Japan versus Korea. She said of her own experience, "Although I love living in Korea, this country still has a long way to go. Korea is known for having the best and fastest internet in the world, and you'd think that would mean something, but blackface and racially ignorant and insensitive (and flat out WRONG) portrayals of black people are still commonplace in Korean entertainment." 

Ideas around blackness take on a more myopic form in places without racial diversity. So a population with a multiplicity of identities becomes flattened into a few stock characters. My Archive of Softness pushes against the compression. 

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Bukchon Hanok Village

 

Close your eyes and imagine with me: you step off the bus in Seoul. Your downtown and you can tell because the sky greets you with metal clouds that glitter in the night and reflect the world during the day. You walk 3 blocks north and duck east into an alleyway and suddenly you're transported back to the Joseon Dynasty. The rush and hecticness of the city fall away as you explore the narrow alleys and intricate details of the traditional Korean houses called "hanok". People wander around you dressed in high-waisted, A-line dresses  called Hanbok's- they are bright and colorful. You are lost in another time, but fantasies don't last forever and the woman wearing the hanbok pulls out a selfie stick and you're transported back to the present. 

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For my first full day in Seoul I wanted to do as much exploration as possible. Thankfully the Bukchon Hanok village is situated in between the two main palaces. Word of advice Google maps does not work for street by street directions. It was able to tell me where the bus would pick me up and drop me off, however, I had to navigate the winding streets around my hostel to get there. 

 I walked over 9 miles in total my first day, but it was worth it because the village was originally created to house nobility and high-ranking government officials.  And you can really see the majesty in these houses through the intense attention to detail. Despite years of wear and tear the attention paid was so clear. 

As I wandered around the village I stumbled across this street art that took up the bottom portion of a large wall. I wasn't sure if it was history lesson from the Joseon Dynasty or some kind of protest art.

Besides taking photos and exploring the maze that makes up this village I highly suggest everyone find the Bukchon Hanok Observatory. From there you can see the roofs of all the houses and the beautiful patterns they made. Looking south you can see the roofs of these hundred year old houses and how the blend into modern city, looking north and the hanok's fade off into the base of the mountain. 

Exploring the history of Seoul through this village was the perfect introduction to Seoul, a city that blends so seamlessly the past, present, and future. Make sure you subscribe below so you never miss an addition to the Archive!

Busan

 

After spending a month and a half in Tokyo I was ready for a change in scenery. I've grown used to the flow of the city: waiting for trains, walking home, deciphering kanji on the menus of ramen restaurants. Living in Tokyo a part of my routine; one of the hardest and most life-changing routines I've had to develop but routine none the less.   

The best way to appreciate the space you live in daily is to take a break from it. When DC became too monotonous I would take a trip to NYC to clear my head. Now that I'm in Tokyo a quick jaunt to South Korea is how I'll re-ground myself. 

Originally my goal was to travel to Thailand, but after discovering how hot it becomes in April I decided that the temperate climate of South Korea would be better for my aesthetic. Instead of flying from Tokyo to Seoul I decided to take the ferry from Fukuoka to Busan instead. This way I could squeeze two extra cities into my trip. 

Busan is the second largest city in South Korea and is thought of as Korea's San Francisco. While there the city was building frantically as its the home of the 2030 World Expo.

The first thing I noticed in Busan and later Seoul is the sheer number of sculptures I have never seen so many statues and sculptures around a city as I have while traveling through South Korea and I'm from DC. 

 I felt awkward navigating around this foreign culture and new language. But at the same time, I felt alive. Nowhere did this contradiction feel more literal then inside a restaurant. The first picture above is the restaurant I ate after checking into my hostel.  The first time I saw the prices on the menu I audibly gasped before I realized that the currency was Won instead of Yen. For comparison,  one thousand yen is ten dollars whereas, ten thousand won is 8 dollars. I ate this thick pork bone soup that was popular in the south along with the delicious side dishes called banchan.

The next day before I caught my bus I wondered the downtown area and found another restaurant. I ordered a  soup and some dumplings. The soup was bright red with chunks of meat and vegetables. I realized after gulping down half the soup that it was so red not because it was seasoned with Kim chi but because it was deep and intensely spicy. The number one thing I missed in Japan was spicy food and while Japan was lacking the Koreans live for spicy food. I just wish I had been prepared because I started sweating so much that the lady who owned the shop was seriously concerned about me. 

The timing of this trip was perfect because, as I sat on the ferry about to leave Japan, I realized I had started to feel at home in Tokyo. After feeling so sad and confused my first few weeks I wasn't sure I would come to love Tokyo. However, as the ferry zipped me across the Sea of Japan all I could think about was how I couldn't wait to return. 

Busan is a city rich with history, art, and culture. I definitely need to come back and explore more of the city. But with only 24 hours between when the ferry dropped me off at the harbor and a bus would whisk me away to Seoul, I could really only explore the downtown business district. 

The view from my bus to Seoul. Make sure you subscribe so you don't miss my adventures in Seoul and all my additions to the archive. 

Fashion Meditation IV

 

By now I'm used to the constant stares. The consumption of my body in Tokyo is a mix of laughter, astonishment, and jealousy. My ideal expression of a transgender non-conforming identity is a mix of what would be read as masculine and feminine. However, recently I have been leaning more towards the femme. 

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 People tell me I look like a referee in this dress, from Eloquii, and in my head, I'm calling fouls on gender normativity. The long braids bring out the feminine features of my face while the facial hair provides a sharp contrast. These flowers are directly next to a busy traffic intersection and many drivers were forced to do a double take as they drove by. 

I think my desire to prevent a feminine identity stems from the fact that this is all so new to me. I embraced my genderqueer identity last year and only in the last couple months have I been able to find femme affirming clothing that fits me. 

Even though I've found a couple brands I still have major holes in my closet, like only owning one skirt.  I was forced to wear jeans because searching for the perfect denim skirt is one of the hardest things in the world. This scarf, from the British brand Blazon, is so colorful that it needs something neutral to weigh it down. It occupies the position as my second favorite scarf in my wardrobe.  The light blue cotton button up from Asos keeps the look clean.

What surprised me was that even with such a masculine look, I still got stares on the train. Don't forget to subscribe below so you never miss an addition to the Archive. 

Shimokitazawa

 

Shimokitazawa, or Shimokita for short, has been described as what Tokyo would look like if hipsters ran the city. From boutique clothing stalls, quaint coffee shops, and amazing vintage finds this is not an area you want to miss. 

Shimokita consists of tiny streets packed with stores selling a combination of new and vintage pieces. If you are in search of something unique then I would suggest you spend a couple hours getting lost among the clothes hangers. At Tabatha you can find Supreme like merchandise that reps the neighborhood of Shimokita with cute hats and jackets.

Some of the strangest things I saw in Tokyo was in this small neighborhood. I was walking down the street and noticed this mannequin and I had to step in to get a closer look. 

One of the best stores I stumbled across was Far East Leather, founded in 1979. The store carries handmade wallets and purses.

What stood out to me most was the abundance of graffiti that could be found in Shimokita. I love to see different cities and cultures take on the art form and I was always saddened by its abcense in Tokyo. For a slice of the weird and quirky visit Shimokitazawa.

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Craft Sake Week

 

If you are in Tokyo for the cherry blossoms in early April, I highly suggest checking out Craft Sake Week. For a week and a half, they highlight 10 different breweries each day. I really wanted to attend the day celebrating Female Sake Brewers but I ended up attending the day where they hosted the ten best Sake breweries according to a sake rating app called Sakenomy. The drinks did not dissapoint. 

To start, 3,500 Yen gets you six chips that you exchange for food and drink at any of the vendors. The sake prices ranges from 1-3 chips depending on how much the sake rice was polished before brewing.  The bottles with only one chip were Junmaishu which means that 30% of the rice used for milling was polished away. Two chip sake was Ginjoshu meaning 40% of the rice was polished away and sake worth 3 chips was Daiginjoshu meaning 50% was polished away. You must have the same question I did: what does milling away the rice do for the sake? The alcohol in sake comes from fermenting the sugar. Whereas in wine made from grapes the sugar naturally occurs in the fruit, the sugar in sake comes from the starch from the inner kernel of the rice. Therefore polishing the rice is seen as removing the "impurities" or the outer shell that would take away from the pure flavor of the rice.

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I started off trying all the Junmaishu sake's from the different breweries. The flavors ranged from tart to sweet. I slowly moved my up the chip later. I have to say I prefer the taste the Ginjoshu sakes' the best. They had the perfect balance with a light delicate flavor. 

Craft Sake Week also had little games one could play in between their sake tastings. 

Craft Sake Week is a great way to get a taste of the different varieties and types of Sake that Japan has to offer. I was excited to broaden my knowledge of sake to something outside of sake bombs. 

Tsukiji Fish Market

 

The first time I ever had sushi was in a banquet hall during my teenage years. While the date and location are fuzzy the memories that are the strongest from that night was being tricked into eating wasabi and disliking sushi. I knew that for my upcoming travel to Japan I needed to get over my dislike of sushi. While in LA I made it my mission to get conquer my aversion. After a couple rolls and sake bombs I finally started to get the hang of the sushi life. However nothing prepared me for eating sushi in Tokyo. 

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One of the best and most famous places to eat sushi in Tokyo is at the Tsukiji Fish Market. The market itself has been operating in this location since it was relocated after an earthquake in 1923. The market is separated into inner and outer sections. The famous fish auction takes place at the inner market and has very limited seating that requires you to arrive around 4 am, before the trains open, in order to snag a seat.

For those who just want to eat sushi breakfast feel free to show up around 9 or 10 and the outer market will be full of fresh fish and tourists meandering its tiny alleys. The first thing I realized when eating sushi in Tokyo is the absence of maki, which is the sushi rolls we are so accustomed to in the states. While they definitely are available the most common form of sushi you find is nigri, which is fish placed on top of sushi rice. I found that with nigri the flavor and texture of the fish really shine through. 

Now don't be tempted by the long lines of some of the more famous sushi shops in Tsukiji. Every restaurant in the outer market gets its fish at the same time from the inner market so quality doesn't vary. I advise wandering the markets looking our for signs like this:

I found that the cheapest restaurants were in the back of the outer market near the shrine. Some places near the front charged more money for the exact same products in the back so evaluate carefully.  After I found my location I ordered three different kinds of tuna over rice. 

One of the best breakfasts I've ever had.

One of the best breakfasts I've ever had.

I wouldn't order too much because there's so much more to eat in this market than sushi. I suggest starting off with sushi and then finishing off your breakfast with one of these. 

After getting your fill, wander around the market and see all the cool shops and stores. I found a wine bar tucked into the back section of the market along with stalls selling dried fish and strawberries and anything else you could want. 

As I was exploring the market I found a Shinto shrine hidden in the back. It's a great place to sit down and take a rest away from all the frenzied tourists in the outer market. The Namiyoke Inari Shrine was built in 1657 and its name means "protection from waves."

Exploring the market and eating some of the freshest fish was a great way to start my morning. A stop here is a must for anyone visiting this amazing city. 

Fashion Meditation III

 

When I told people that Tokyo was the first stop on my international travels everyone asked me why? The question hidden inside those three letters was: Why would a black person go to Tokyo a place where there are no other black people? Which in all honestly is a fair question. Anti blackness is global and I knew that as a traveler the color of my skin would make me stand out in ways white people typically never have to worry about.

Now I'll be honest, before I came to Tokyo I did read a lot about what being black in Asia as a whole and Japan specifically would be like- Virgo' always do their research. The results were mixed some said that it wasn't an issue in big cities but going to more rural areas might prove difficult. Other people reflected that even in big cities they faced open hostility. What I knew for sure was that I wasn't just going to Tokyo as a black person but as a black trans person. While my blackness might make me stand out my gender non-conforming presentation would be a beacon.

 I don't get stared at anymore in Tokyo from adults then I do in DC or New York . Now the group of people who are quite often surprised to see me are children under the age of 10. Which makes sense because as a homogenous culture where less than 1% of the total population is foreign they don't see a lot of difference

For those who've been following me on Instagram, link in the top right, you've noticed that I got some new hair right before I left for Tokyo. This has been my second trial with box braids and honestly so much better than the first time. My braids are much smaller this time so they don't weigh me down as much and I learned that pre-soaking your hair in an Apple Cider Vinegar solution takes off this film that makes your scalp itch. All but two Japanese people have touched my hair without permission. Otherwise people have been really respectful about asking first.

Now in the outfit above, which is my first trial at self-portraiture using my tripod, I wore my vintage Chanel jacket with a simple cotton shirt from ASOS and my favorite hat by this DC brand called Rent is Due. Sadly my hat and the braids didn't mix so I lost the hat one night while partying. 

I wore this outfit to Senso-ji Temple. I actually wandered the ground with a suitcase of 3 different outfits to change into but the area was so crowded that this was the only good spot I found to set up my tripod. Now the skirt is from my favorite plus size brand Eloquii. I really suggest checking them out. I copped the Kaya Midi Skirt in lemon shine. Normally I prefer my skirts and dresses to fall above the knee because it elongates my frame but this midi skirt looked so good on me I couldn't send it back. The top is a shirt from Asos in this gorgeous cosmic geometric pattern. You really can't see the pattern in this photo because the sun was so bright but the two look amazing together. The flats are vintage from a thrift store in Chicago. The lip is from this black owned cosmetics brand called Coloured Raine and the color is Heart of Stone.

I really like how these first to attempts at portrait photography turned out. Remember to subscribe below so you never miss another chapter in the Archives of a DivaNun!

Senso-ji Temple

 

Incense smoke wafts out of the jokoro and over your body in a ritual act that’s been performed at the temple for the last four hundred years.  The jokoro sits directly in front of the main hall of the Senso-ji Temple and is a place for you to purify your body before entering the sacred ground completed in 628- the oldest in Tokyo. The temple is dedicated to Guanyin, the Buddhist Goddess of mercy.

Coming to Japan was an act of purification I didn’t know I needed. Far away from all of my comforts, there was nothing left for me to hide behind. And in that stillness, I grew more connected to my passion and what drew me to travel in the first place even though I had to cry to get there.

The Kaminarimon

The Kaminarimon

The first thing that greets you on your way towards the temple is the Kaminarimon, the Thunder Gate.  A great red lantern with a dragon carved on the bottom hangs in between to statues of the gods of Thunder and Wind. I was surprised to learn that the statues present are restorations of the original. 

Past the first gate is a market that has existed almost as long as the temple itself with some of the stalls operated by the same family for over 100 years. The street crowded and full of sweets, gifts, and paraphernalia is called Nakamise-Dori. 

Towards the end lies the second gate the Hozomon which again was destroyed twice since it was built in 942.

The temple and the Nakamise-Dori aren't the only things to enjoy while exploring this site of rich history. 

There are so many additional shrines and gardens and statues that dot the area. There are shrines dedicated to the people who built the temple. Statues that remember the service of important women from Japanese history.

Once you are off the main strip you get to enjoy the more quiet side of this Buddhist temple. There's a shaded area off to the left that I sat at while eating a Japanese sweet bread filled with ice cream. I thought about how the temple and its many parts have been destroyed so many times the most damaging being the air raids during WWII. But in the spirit of rebirth and peace, they were crafted anew. I hope that everyone who comes to this shrine dedicated to mercy leaves with compassion and forgiveness in their hearts, the same way I did. 

I always say as long as you learn from your experiences then you should never regret them. I learned so much in my sadness that I rediscovered a happiness I haven't felt in years. I can't wait to continue to share the happy memories I'm making here in Tokyo!

The Hozomon Gate &nbsp;and jokoro as seen from the temple.&nbsp;

The Hozomon Gate  and jokoro as seen from the temple. 

Week 1 in Tokyo

 

I woke up in Tokyo but my body still thought I was on the east coast. After an 18 hour flight, numerous time zone changes, and almost missing my connection in Beijing I had finally arrived in the city of my dreams minus one of my checked bags.

The view from my window seat.&nbsp;

The view from my window seat. 

My first night was spent in a hotel because the hostel I was staying in ended check in after my flight landed.  The only thing open at midnight after I navigated the sprawling Japanese railway system was 7/11 though I didn't care because I was hungry for something other then tiny airport meals. I was quite surprised by how much better the quality of food was in Tokyo verses the states. 

After a brief nights sleep I went to go check into my hostel. There is so much to see in Tokyo and even during the brief walk I was inundated with sights and smells. Every inch of this city is packed with something visually interesting. 

The hostel I checked into was the Irori Hostel and Kitchen located in Nihonbashi a little west of Chiyoda. Irori is named after the traditional Japanese fireplace hidden in the tables that dot the entrance. I choose this because it seemed to represent a more authentic introduction to Japan. The staff was so nice and helpful with all my questions. Irori has two lounges and a kitchen you can prepare your own meals, they even cook a traditional Japanese breakfast if you order one the night before. The bunk beds were comfortable and the most privacy I've ever had while in a shared hostel. Next time you go to Tokyo I highly suggest you stay there.

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My first taste of Japanese food was some miso soup and some delicious fried chicken at Torigen a quick walk from Irori. The texture of the fried chicken was lighter than the southern recipes I’m used to with a much more subtle flavor which allowed the taste of the chicken to really shine.

I'll admit I was extremely intimidated by the Tokyo railway system of which there are 158 lines owned by 58 different companies. Thankfully the Pasmo card which you can get upon arrival at the airport allows you to hop between them as if they are all owned by the same. Once you ride it once it becomes a much more simple beast especially since there are many signs and announcements made in English. 

What you do need to be careful about is the final train. Tokyo's expansive network of trains suspend service around midnight depending on where you are in the city. Unlike DC, where the train system flushes itself out, Tokyo's transit will just stop at whatever station and force you to get out. You would think that taxi's and uber's would rush to fill in that market but no. Taxi's can be as costly as $100 for a distance that would only be $15-20 in DC. So people stay out in Tokyo till 5am.

 

I explored a lot in my first week, and my future blog posts will all be dedicated to one of the 23 wards. Two things made my first week very hard. The first was that I arrived in Tokyo for 3 months but only had accommodation for the first week. I trusted in the universe that I would find a place and while it all worked out through Tokyo Room Finder and I now live in Shinjuku I'll tell you that Tokyo did not make it easy. For one, there isn't really a culture of shared living in your 20's and 30's that exists in so much of the United States. If you want a communal living environment I suggest checking out Borderless House

The second thing that made my first week difficult was that I was really lonely. The research said Japan is a difficult country to make friends in. I considered myself the kind of person who can and has traveled places by myself. But when it actually hit me as I walked down the streets of Roppongi that I was really by myself- I couldn't help but cry. I let the feeling wash over me fully because it's something that everyone who travels solo feels. Tokyo is one of the hardest beasts to master and as my first destination I was taking on quite a challenge. Almost every other place I travel too should be much easier. After the tears dried I felt more certain than ever that I was where I was supposed to be. I was taking the time to focus on my art and live outside my comfort zone in a city I always dreamed of living. I came to Tokyo to grow and flourish is what I will do here. 

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Fashion Meditation II

 

San Francisco is such a rich and full city. Even though I've now been there twice I still feel like I've barely scratched the surface. I'm not even taking into account Oakland and Berkley which only deepen the Bay Area's culture and history. I'm not worried though because I will be living in LA eventually and I will be able to take in the beauty of the Bay Area whenever I want!

This dress was made by this amazing women in DC. You find her stall in Eastern Market on the weekends. I borrowed the Sunglasses from Valerie when we had our photoshoot in Bernal Heights

Grinnell is still foundational to my fashion and style. Not only was it the place where I decided to start the process of living my life on my own terms I still have so many great pieces that I found in the thrift stores surrounding the college. One of those great finds is the silky blouse I'm wearing under the cape. It's a bold look from far away but up close you see that the spaces in between the black lines are filled with an intricate flower design. I paired it with my purple Timberlands and forrest green lipstick as I explored the alleyways of Chinatown.

I wore this look on one of my last days in San Francisco when I visited Dolores Park. The denim dress is from Asos and the African print jacket is one of my favorite pieces. You will see it a lot when I'm in Japan it's just such a versatile piece. Sadly, for all of you it's thrifted from my days in Grinnell. The beads are from Jamaica and a gift from a dear friend. The sunglasses were thrifted from Beatnix in Chicago.

Dark Leo Fashion Film pt2

 

The sun's rays filtered through the trees at the location of Mundy and I's second film shoot for her song Dark Leo. This time around I was armed with the knowledge you can only receive by getting behind the camera. I used spend hours watching tutorials about how to get the "film look" or the best camera settings for getting great footage so that when I finally picked up a camera the resulting images would be perfct. But that's not how things work in reality. 

The idea behind this shoot was to break her song Dark Leo up into three sections and film mini fashion films around each one. My thighs were on fire squatting to ensure the shot came out just how I wanted to. Thankfully, I have since invested in a tripod so film shoots need not double as my exercise regime. 

For part two we wanted to do a single take, to mimic the idea of an alien awakening on planet Earth. This merged perfectly with Mundy's space glam rock inspired music. If you haven't seen her live you are truly missing out. Mundy brings so much raw kinetic energy to her shows.

While we were filming the video Mundy's cat Monster was roaming the grounds and we couldn't pass up the photo opp. 

Without further adieu, I present part 2 of Dark Leo. Don't forget to buy the single here and follow Mundy on Facebook

SF/ Chinatown

 

The streets were slick with rain but they didn’t stop us or the umbrella’d masses from exploring San Francisco's Chinatown. Which makes sense considering it is the largest Chinatown outside of Asia as well as the oldest in North America. 

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After a quick bite of a clay pot dish we went looking for the Peace Heart Doctor Banksy artwork that lines the walls of one of the many alleyways in Chinatown. We couldn’t find it, the address is 720 Grant Ave,  but what we did stumble across was a fortune cookie factory.

Now as someone who can’t stand the taste of fortune cookies I have to say that fresh cookies taste infinitely better than the ones that you receive in a restaurant. 

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For 50 cents we were allowed to snap photos inside the factory. 

Despite my new appreciation for the creation of these cookies I'm still traumatized by the last fortune I got which told me I was not being paranoid enough. 

We kept exploring down the maze of alleyways and discovered another cool handmade desert by the name of Dragon's Hair. Think of it as the Chinese take on cotton candy. 

This delicious desert can be ordered at Dragon Papa 752 Grant Ave.

I exited Chinatown and made my way to Oakland wondering what other cool foods I would discover during my travels.

Bernal Heights

 

Five and a half years ago, Valerie and I ran away from the tour guide on the military island of Pompus in the Netherlands. We noticed a room with the perfect aesthetics for a photo shoot. Valerie laid down on a reflective surface as metal rods hung from the ceiling; I snapped a few pictures before we swapped places.

Never content with the ordinary, we became fast friends in Amsterdam. Wherever we explored need to look like the inner pages of a fashion magazine. We’d prep outfits together in our dorm before biking off to some new location. Our time creating art (her painting, my photography) paved the road for my love of urban photography with a fashion twist.

Valerie and I were reunited on the corner of 25th and Mission. The last time we saw each other it was too cold for us to engage in our ritual of photography. Thankfully, winter in the Bay gives you plenty of nice sunny days. We made our way to the top of Bernal Heights and were both astounded by the size of this hill and the grand views it gives of the city. 

Unlike LA I wasn’t going into San Francisco blind. I spent a few weeks in San Francisco two years ago. There is something very interesting about the first two times you visit a city. The first time you are overloaded by the information you are receiving. Everything is so new and fresh. I find the second trip to a city reveals so much more about the energy and tone of a place. What shined brightly on the first trip might be duller upon a closer viewing. 

The sun was setting fast and in our attempt at chase after we ran off the hill and explored more of the neighbor behind the behemoth. Valerie and I found steep hills and gorgeous houses to photograph as we continued our urban exploration. 

If you are looking for things to do after a fun day exploring Bernal Heights I suggest going to this amazing bar Old Devin Moon right down the street on Mission. And if you want a bite to eat then please go to Culture of Nepal which happens to be right next door!

As I'm typing this I realize I only have two more weeks until I move to Tokyo. Friendships like the one I have with Valerie allow me to go to Japan with comfort because I have been able to make life long friendships with people in foreign countries over a shared love of art and fashion. Make sure you subscribe below and follow me on Instagram and Facebook so you don't miss a thing!

Fashion Meditation

 

My fashion journey began in the maternity section of a Goodwill. Track Suits used to adorn my body before I fell in love with scarves and bright lipsticks. The only thing the stopped me was the belief that I needed to be skinny to dress nicely. 

 

No longer a slave to an illusion of future perfection I began the daily practice of loving myself. Fashion became an avenue to reclaim my identity. In the outfit above I'm wearing a pair of my favorite sun glasses from Witch World Wide. A velvet cape gifted to me by my bestie Winsome.  Finally, one of my greatest thrift finds a vintage Ralph Lauren Polo shirt. The greenery in Echo Park was a perfect backdrop for this outfit.

In Venice Beach I wore a thrifted grey trench coat. A scarf I got from a thrift store in Grinnell Iowa. Wrangler jeans, a button down from TopMan and some thrifted loafers from Beatnix an iconic store in Boystown Chicago.  

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I'm so happy that Brooke took me to her company office party in the Hollywood Hills. Because it allowed me to wear my Eloquii sleeveless cape gown. This dress always makes me feel like a movie star. I paired it with a dark grey lipstick from Pretty Zombie Cosmetics called Tombstone. The look was brightened with gold accents: a necklace from The Opulent Hippo and a vintage gold clutch.

The looks I served in LA are a small part of what I've learned on my fashion journey. Make sure you subscribe so you don't miss my next Fashion Meditation. 

Echo Park

 

 The Sun decided to say hello just as the photo shoot started. A previously overcast day was now bright with colors; Amhari’s highlight shone like gold. We had just met the week before.

Amhari in front of the lake.

Amhari in front of the lake.

 

When I travel I believe the universe will provide what I need. As a photographer, specifically interested in using the genre of fashion photography to tell the stories of the marginalized, I can’t hone my talent without people. While in L.A. I really wanted to push myself to find a model for my project Black Femme Magic. I haven’t had much luck with model mayhem so I was hoping that while I was out on the town I would meet someone willing to be photographed by me.

 

I sat down on the bench outside of a party- legs tired from dancing to a nudisco song I couldn’t have Shazamed if I wanted to. On my right was Brooke just as tired as me and on the right was a person I didn’t know. In the spirit of being friendly, I said hello. Fast forward and I was now photographing this person.  

What started as a drinking reservoir in 1870 became a park in 1892. Amhari had suggested it because she was from eastern part of L.A.  I spent most of my time on the west side of the city so I rejoiced at the ability to go east. 

After the photoshoot Amhari took me to one of her favorite little pizza places in the neighborhood.