Bamboo & Kimono Forest

January 17, 2018 Ceraun Loggins

The morning light danced across the tall stalks of bamboo. When I looked up the sky was replaced by a field of green. My legs were still sore from the four-hour hike up Fushimi Inari, as Sejan and I explored another one of Kyoto's wonders the Sagano Bamboo Forrest. Located on the western edge of the city at the foot of the Arashi mountain the Bamboo Forrest is one of Japan's premiere soundscapes. Peace and tranquility are embodied in every swish and sway of the bamboo stalks.

I reached out and touched the tall stalks and I was surprised by how thick and strong it was. After seeing them sway in the wind I had expected the bamboo to be soft and pliable, easily broken. However I was mistaken, bamboo has long been revered in Asian cultures for its resiliency and strength. There's an ancient Japanese Proverb "The bamboo that bends is stronger than the oak that resists." When this proverb is applied to travel, I interpret it as praising the benefits of being adaptable and going with the flow. Things don't always work out how you plan but whats best in those moments is to figure out what you can do in the present.

Despite being called a forest the grounds of Sagano weren't actually that large. Which was good for us because we couldn't have handled as much walking as we did the previous day. However, I've seen photos from the bamboo forest on Instagram that Sejan and I could not find during our exploration but assume were behind some of the locked gates.

After we left Sagano we made our way to another colorful and unappreciated site in Kyoto- the Kimono Forrest.

While in Seoul, one of the people in my hostel mentioned that there was really beautiful place near Arashiyama station that see no tourists. When I saw the photo he showed me I knew I had to go. Six hundred tall pillars of dyed fabric make up the Kimono Forrest. The fabric is dyed in the traditional Kyo-Yuzen method. At night the pillars are lit up and the illuminated trail takes you to a gorgeous pond with an orb and a dragon sitting in the middle.

Starting off your day with a stroll around the Sagano Bamboo Forest and then the Kimono Forest is an amazing way to spend a morning in Kyoto. Make sure you Subscribe below so you never miss an addition to the Archive!

Fushimi Inari

October 3, 2017 Ceraun Loggins

The sun wasn't even out when my alarm shook me awake. My eyes half open, I climbed down off the bunk bed making sure not to awake the person on the bottom. Through the dim light I could see that Sejan's bed was already empty. It took every fibre of my being to stay awake but I knew we had to arrive before the hoards of tourist descended.

By the time we were on our way the city of Kyoto was just starting to wake. Buisnessmen rushed past us heads focused on emails. School children were groggy as their parents took them to classes. We stopped by a bakery before we started our cimb. The curried pork was cradled in thick dough and provided the energy we needed for the two hour hike up Fushimi Inari.

The food vendors that line the way to the main shrine of Inari, the God of rice, fertility, and agriculture, were just beginning to set up as we first set our eyes on the beautiful vermillion gate. Fushimi Inari existed before the capital was moved to Kyoto in 794, and you can tell that the mountain contains a powerful energy. So it's fitting that the mountain is adorned with thousands of torii gates- whose existence serves to demarcate the transition from secular to sacred.

Sejan and I made our way to the Senbon Torii, two parallel rows of gates that sprout from behind the main shrine at the Romon gate. By this point, the sun was still faint, not strong enough to illuminate the dense cluster of gates that start the beginning of the hike.

The senbon torii empties you into the first of many small shrines that dot the mountain side. A tiny fox sits on a stone pedastal with a piece of wheat dangling from its mouth. In Shinto mythology foxes are seen as Inari's messengers and are also portrayed with keys and other objects in their mouth.

The trail is relatively level the first half. The Torii gates get further apart and specks of green stand cool against the warmth of the vermillion. Some of the gates are well aged, bearing the weight of the prayers that placed them there. While others gleam shiny and new. The gates have been paid for by business and individuals which is why Fushimi Inari is one of the few shrines in Kyoto that is free of charge to enter and explore. 4,000 dollars can get you a small gate while six figures can fetch you one of the extremely large gates.

After walking past a beautiful stream the pathway turned to stairs. At this point more people joined us on the narrow trail. Despite being no earlier then 9am the steep incline of the stairs and the breathability of my gown caused me to sweat profusely, but Sejan and I press on. We pass a few restaurants selling water, snacks, and other refreshments. As well we see the price of water in the vending machines increase the further up the mountain we go. My calves are tight, I pray that we are more than half way up the mountain.

A plateau appears where I can see and hear people gathering. I gathered my energy thinking we've reached the top. As I cross the last stair a strong breeze greets me like an old friend. The city of Kyoto looks snug in between a forrest and another set of mountains off in the distance. I turn around and instead of being greeted with a big shrine I see three different trails as well as a small sign that states the peak is still a 50 minute hike away.

After climbing the equivalent of 39 flights of stairs Sejan and I made it to the peak. By then it was extremely crowded and it no longer felt like we had the mountain to ourself. The quiet and tranquil walk we had as we journeyed up the mountain was replaced with the sounds of camera shutters, sneakers falling on the concrete, and crying children. The breezy cool morning air was now filled with stagnant heat which would have made just starting the climb unbearable. The further we got down the mountain the more congested it became.

My beautiful dream had become a nightmare. It was hard to believe that Sejan and I were on the same mountain. Once we exited the main gate we looked around and a sea of people greeted us. The food vendors now operational filled the air with delicious scents of fried chicken, takoyaki, and grilled meats.

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Aoi Matsuri

September 25, 2017 Ceraun Loggins

The bus ride from Tokyo to Kyoto happened under the cover of darkness. The pale sunlight of the early morning signaled we had arrived in the once capital of Japan. The restaurants of Kyoto had yet to open their eyes for the morning rush so Sejan and I ate food from a convenience store as we waited in the brisk air for our hostel to open.

Once the time came we began to make our way to our hostel. The train station that we arrived in dominated most of the view of the city but as we explored more Kyoto began to resemble a city from a 90's anime.

We first heard of the Aoi Matsuri over some amazing buttered toast after check in. The couple next to us struck up a conversation and mentioned they were going to see the most boring parade in Kyoto. Which also just so happens to be one of the longest running festivals in the entire world. Aoi is Japanese for Hollyhock and the festival is named after the leaves of the flowers that are worn by members of the procession.

The Aoi Matsuri began sometime in the 6th or 7th century and predates Kyoto becoming the capital in the late 8th century. To give some historical perspective this festival started around the same time Islam began. The Tang Dynasty has just begun its rule China, and the Byzantine empire started to shrink from outside threats.

The procession starts at the southern gates of the Imperial Palace of Kyoto, there are paid seating at various points along the parade route but we just stood on the street. What made the Aoi Matsuri so interesting was that the people in the parade were completely silent. They file by you as if you aren't even there. A long continuous stream of people flow out of the gate, dressed in bright colors, some bearing only a hollyhock branch, while others carry large umbrella's or pull beautifully decorated oxen and horses along the route.

Serendipity brought us to Kyoto on the day of one of its oldest festivals. I was excited to see what else Kyoto would share with us as we explored its beauty and history. Make sure you subscribe below so you never miss an addition to the Archive!

Shinjuku Gyoen & Meiji Shrine

September 4, 2017 Ceraun Loggins

My legs were sore, tiny bolts of electricity danced through my calves with every step I took. The pedometer in my iPhone calculated had just hit 9 miles today almost on par with the 10 I walked yesterday. The line graph since Sejan's arrival jutted high like a mountain, towering above the days spent at home. I was spending my time in Tokyo more like a vacation and less like a natural part of my everyday life.

When you travel with someone you have to make sure that you have similar travel styles. Good friends do not always make good travel partners. On vacation Sejan moves at a lightning pace, routinely walking a mile in the mornings before I had even woken up. Meanwhile, I like to slow down, stretch out the hours until I melt into the local vibrations. Despite the difference in our speeds Sejan and I made great travel buddies because we care a lot about good food, taking amazing pictures, and being efficient.

Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden is an oasis in the middle of hectic, chaotic, and busy Shinjuku. Rows of gorgeous award winning roses. Gardens designed in French, Japanese, and English styles. And large open spaces - perfect for a picnic greet you inside this haven. I had seen so many beautiful photos here and I couldn't wait to capture some of my own. Green houses have always been a love of mine because they represent a liminal space allowing flowers to grow in spaces and times when they would normally die.

During the Edo Period, Shinjuku Gyoen served as the home of the feudal lord of Tokyo. In 1903 it was transfered to the Imperial Family, but it wasn't until 1949 that it was opened as a public park after almost being destroyed during World War II. World War II always seemed so far away when I learned about it in school. However, living in Tokyo has made me realize the scars countries have beared from the brutal conflict and how much important cultural history was almost lost.

After wandering around Shinjuku Gyoen Sejan and I headed towards Meiji Shrine. If I had been by myself I would have walked back home after enjoying a delicious bowl of ramen, however, Sejan was on a mission and so we hoped on the train and headed to our next destination.

Now, I didn't mean to save the shrine dedicated to the father of modern Japan for when Sejan arrived. I actually tried to explore Meiji shrine my third week but I got lost in Yoyogi Park. I assumed that since the two shared grounds that you could walk from one to the other. However, after many attempts- I gave up. On my way out of Yoyogi I happened upon a group of rockabillies and it was then that I realized that Yoyogi and Meiji have different entrances.

The shrine itself was completed in 1920, eight years after Emperor Meiji had passed. Interestingly enough he took the throne when he was only 15 years old. The grounds start with a large wooden gate and a wide road. The road eventually brings you to the sake barrels that you see above. These are donated every year as an offering. As you continue down the wooded trail the sounds and sights of Tokyo fall away and you forget that you are in a city.

Deep in the forrest sits the Meiji Shrine which was unfortunately under renovations in the ramp up to the 2020 Olympics. So I didn't get any good photos of the shrine itself but I loved wandering around all the altars and cleansing stations. Despite my exhaustion I was happy to be sharing my time in Tokyo with someone that I've known for so long.

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Tokyo/Imperial Palace

August 26, 2017 Ceraun Loggins

My time in Seoul allowed me to reconnect with myself. I turned over rocks and explored deep in the soil of my subconscious and I realized something new. I don't travel to see new and interesting things, to explore the unexplored. For me travel is about building a deeper connection with myself and with the people I meet along the way. This explains my difficult first month in Tokyo. I have no problem going places by myself, but I'm going there because I want to meet new people. Tokyo became a source of joy for me after I built a community. And after my time in Fukuoka my love of Tokyo was growing even stronger because one of my best friends from college was coming to visit me.

I had been saving many places that I wanted to see in Tokyo for Sejan's arrival. High among the list was the Imperial Palace. The palace sits on the grounds of the old Edo Castle. Before Tokyo became the capital, the honors go to Kyoto. It wasn't until 1868 that the emperor even moved from Kyoto to Tokyo. The grounds are encloused in a huge moat with different areas inside like the palace grounds where the royal family lives as well as numerous gardens.

The sun greeted us intensely as we made our way from the train platform up to the East Gardens of the Imperial Palace. I heard this place is gorgeous during cherry blossom season. The land was well manicured and there was even an area that contained one tree for each of the 47 prefectures of Japan.

You can also learn about the history of the grounds themselves and how their use has evolved overtime. The photo above is from inside of a guard house. After making our way around the gardens we attempted to explore the royal palace itself. I should have known something was up because there is no way to get to the palace from the garden so we walked around the moat that enshrines the totality of the grounds. The moat was really pretty and the grass sweeping down to the water made for a good picture as the city looms in the background.

There were no signs listing which way was the fastest route to the Palace so I pulled up Google Maps and found the closest bridge from the street across the moat. Sejan and I began walking there, however when we arrived the gate was closed so we walk to the next bridge. That gate was closed as well so we continued walking around the perimeter of the moat. By the time we got to the main gate we had essentially walked 5 kilometers. Unfortunately, we were not rewarded for our efforts because you can only explore the palace grounds on specific days of the year and through tours. This is why you should always do your research.

Tired and hungry we wandered away to nearby Ginza and found this cute hawaiian themed restaurant where I ordered a tuna salad that was amazing!

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Fukuoka

August 24, 2017 Ceraun Loggins

The Sea of Japan was calm as the boat made its way to Fukuoka. Black and white captions scrolled across the screen of the nearest television. An image of Trump cut to an image of Kim Jong-un before a news commentator appeared. I pressed my head against the cold glass happy that I hadn't missed the boat to Japan. I was even happier that I made the trip across the sea in the first place. A dose of media hysteria made me afraid to leave Japan. However, in South Korea I was greeted with calm not paranoia. My time away from the states made me forget how over exxagerated the news coverage can be.

Even though I had just gotten used to the rhythym of my life in Tokyo I knew I needed a break. I am a firm believer that frequent breaks from your environment helps you to appreciate it so much more. For me, that was reconnecting to why I love travel in the first place. My time exploring South Korea gave me just enough distance to return to Japan with a mission and a drive I hadn't felt since the plane took off from Newark Airport all those months ago.

Taking the ferry had many advantages over a direct flight from Tokyo to Seoul. I got to explore the city of Busan- aka South Korea's answer to San Francisco very briefly. As well I was taking two days to explore a small city called Fukuoka which rests on the island of Kyushu, the most southern of the main islands of Japan. But most importantly I didn't have to worry about any liquid limits and bought a ton of Korean skin care products.

Thankfully Fukuoka greeted me with sun and clouds as opposed to the intense rain storm that greeted me on the first leg of my journey. I was told that Fukuoka was known for a very intense pork ramen called hakata ramen. So my first stop after checking into my hostel was a big bowl of ramen. I was so hungry and tired from my marathon travels but trust me when I say I ate the most rich bowl of ramen in my life.

I had always hoped that the sadness which clouded the beginning of my time in Tokyo would lift and that I would develop an appreciation of the city even as I grew to realize that Tokyo was not able to give me what I needed. Those dreams were true the morning I woke up in Fukuoka. I had half a day to explore the city before heading back to Tokyo which I had begun to consider my home. Tokyo was so clear to me and I couldn't wait to take advantage of all that it had to offer. My original plan was to go to the Wisteria gardens and take some self portraits there. However, I was more tired than I anticipated and instead decided to keep it local. I ate some udon from a shop across from my hostel and then made my way to Ohori Park.

Ohori Park opened in 1929 and was modeled after the West Lake of China. This park is beautiful and a great place to relax by the water. What I really loved about it was the beautiful stone bridges that cut their way through the middle of the lake.

The main attraction is this stunning vermillion structure that juts off the edge of the mini islands. The city surrounds it and its really pretty. After wandering around the park you can also see the ruins of an old castle. I wish I had more time to explore Fukuoka and Japan. My tourist visa meant that I had to choose between traveling deeply or broadly. The only Japanese cities I planned on exploring besides Tokyo was Nara, Kyoto, and Fukuoka. I choose deep because I really wanted to create community and art in Tokyo which can only grow from a consistent time in one place. The choice of depth was a success even though I had to change my initial vision of what success meant to me.

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Fashion Meditation V

August 19, 2017 Ceraun Loggins

I awoke in a 6 person mixed gender hostel dorm in Hongdae, Seoul. A dim light made its way through the flimsy curtain and cast a solitary beam into the room. My plan was to wear my favorite dress during my first day in Seoul; I was going to explore royal palaces and an old village. Unlike Tokyo, where I still had a month and a half to explore the city, I was on a really tight schedule in Seoul.

I've been lucky to build a queer community in Tokyo. However, as I was getting dressed that morning under the pale light I was suddenly shaken by the overwhelming heterosexuality of my environment. I was unsure if I would have to spend the rest of my time in Seoul talking to people about the complexity of gender- justifying my humanity.

The dress I wore on my first day, above, is from Eastern Market in DC. You saw it briefly when I was Bernal Heights in San Francisco. I couldn't wait to bust this dress out while I was in Seoul. I thought the pattern and fit who look so well against the strong forms of Korean architecture. When I first saw it among the racks the pattern drew me in. Then I noticed the skirts unique asymmetrical hem and I was sold. My lip is in one of my favorite shades <3 of Stone by Coloured Raine.

Despite the fact that the LGBTQ community has its own internal issues: racism, misogyny, erasure of trans people, white washing history, homonationalism, etc. ; I still feel comfortable in spaces marked as gay or queer. In that moment while I stood in that dorm debating over whether to put on my dress or my jeans I decided to not be guided by fear. Navigating my personal safety in a culture of travel where the default is cis-heterosexual and white will be difficult but I refused to hide. I decided to shine as brightly as ever. My philosophy is that by showing who you really are you will attract the people who are meant to be in your life and repel the ones who don't.

I continued to rock my bright lipsticks and in this look, taken in a flower garden at one of the smaller Royal Palaces of Seoul, I'm wearing my favorite skirt- the Kaya from Eloquii. This skirt is so versatile I can dress it up with a shirt that has buttons or in this instance I dressed it down with a really cute t-shirt I got from Uniqlo. Uniqlo has a collection of graphic art prints that I have been purchasing every summer. I turned the shirt into a crop myself and I think the resulting silhouette is amazing. My lip is again from Coloured Raine and it's a gorgeous shade of purple called Kiss Me.

Despite grounded in the daily reality of the murder of trans and gender queer femmes I had no need to be worried. The people I encountered during my stay in Seoul were from all around the world and really cool. I'm hoping this kind of response is what I get throughout the rest of my travels. Which is to say that the bar is set really low. Living my life the only way I know how hopefully opens up the minds of the people I meet to the complexity of gender. Not just so they treat other trans and gnc people with respect but so they can begin to unlearn what they have been taught.

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DivaNun Guide/Seoul

August 16, 2017 Ceraun Loggins

This DivaNun Guide is a one pager of everything to do, see, and eat in Seoul.

Historical

The Royal Palaces
- Changdeokgung, Changgyeonggung, Deoksugung, Gyeongbokgung, Gyeonghuigung
  - I've highlighted the ones I've seen
  - The palaces have a fee to enter but buying the bulk pass for all 5 palaces is the cheapest option even if you don't see every palace.
  - Bulk Pass Price: 10,000 won
Bukchon Hanok Village
- A preserved version of a village during the Jonseon Dynasty.
- You can wander around the village for free but I highly suggest you pay to get into the observation deck.
- Observaiton Deck Price: 3,000 won

Cultural

Leeum, Samsung Museum of Art
- An amazing art gallery that combines both ancient and contemporary art. One of the best interior designing I've ever seen in an art museum.
Hongdae Neighborhood
- This is where the university is and where my hostel was located. A great place for partying and night life. Lots of good restaurants to explore.
Itaewon Neighborhood
- This is a very foreigner heavy district. There are some good restaurants but overall not a place I prefered to hang out out.
Gangnam Neighborhood
- The bright and shiny neighborhood south of the river. I found this place to be very expensive and didn't hang out there very much.
Ihwa Mural Village
- Murals and cute cafe's line the hills of this cute little village.

Miscellaneous

Facebook Pages
Night Life
- Gay/Trans (Homo Hill)
  - Tucked away in Itaewon is Homo Hill where a number of different bars catering to gay and trans people are placed.
- Thursday Party (124-6 Itaewon 1(il)-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul, South Korea)
  - A fun bar with a mix of both tourists and local college students. Though it does lean more heavily tourist. The drinks are strong and it will be popping on a weekday
- NB1/ NB2 (362-4 Mapo-gu, Seoul, South Korea )
  - Large loud club on weekends. Open very late. Always packed
  - They play hip hop and pop music.
  - Free before 10pm the cover starts off at 10,000 won before 11 and it rises at midnight.
Accomodation
- Time Travelers Party Hostel in Hongdae
  - 11 Yeonhui-ro 2-gil, Sinchon-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul, South Korea
  - Very cheap and amazing hostel. DJ the owner is really chill and they go on group BBQ dinners on Friday.
  - Youthful staff and a bar in the game lounge made this a very social and amazing place to hang out.
Souveniers
- Skin care products are a must when you go to Seoul. It's so much cheaper then the United States. My favorite store was Skin Food but also Nature's Republic is forever bae.

Food

After a month of Japanese food I was looking for something spicy and different.

Cafe Blanc (173-14 Donggyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul, South Korea)
- This was a cafe near my hostel. They served freshly baked bread and other dishes that took their inspiration from France but use Korean foundations.
- The fried pork sandwich and the pastries above were my favorite things.
Piggy Bank (331-1 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul, South Korea )
- I was told that unlike in the states Korean Barbque has meat specific restaurants. The first shop I went to was chicken only but piggy bank gave me the juicy pork and beef korean barbque that I love. The meat here is cooked over hot stones and it was so good.
Korean Fried Chicken
- I don't have a favorite place for fried chicken in Seoul because everywhere I ate was delicious and the portions were huge.
Vegetables
- Korea is a place that eats a lot of meat so aside from the Banchan, the small plates of fermented veggies and other good stuff, that comes with your bowl of rice and meat you won't eat very much green stuff. I even resorted to eating a salad because I was so desperate for a vegetable

Transportation/ Navigation

In Seoul
- While there aren't as many sings in english as there where in Tokyo I had no problem navigating the urban transportation infastructure. I took buses and trains and always managed to get where I intended
- Google Maps does not give walking directions so it's terrible for that but I was able to plot all my bus and train travel using it
To Seoul
- There are non stop flights from Tokyo to Seoul but I decided that I wanted to add some extra cities for my trip. So Instead I flew to Fukuoka and took the Ferry from Fukuoka, Japan to Busan, South Korea,
- Ferry Travel
  - The Ferry is very cheap and if you have tome to squeeze in two extra cities its one of the best ways to travel. A one way ticket only cost me $65 and takes around 3 hours over the sea of Japan.
  - Important Reminder you have to pay port taxes in cash before you can get on the boat. It's about 600 yen on the Japanese side and 3,000 won on the Korean side. I thought I could pay in card in Busan and I almost missed my ferry home.

Next Visit

Boseong Green Tea Fields
- Can you imagine the photoshoots I would pull in these luscious ass fields
Sunny Books
- LGBT Book store in Itaewon
Jjimjilbang
- 24 hour beauty spa's, where you can get massages and soaks in all kinds of different rooms.
- Siloam is the one I heard was the best

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Bukchon Hanok Village

June 23, 2017 Ceraun Loggins

Close your eyes and imagine with me: you step off the bus in Seoul. Your downtown and you can tell because the sky greets you with metal clouds that glitter in the night and reflect the world during the day. You walk 3 blocks north and duck east into an alleyway and suddenly you're transported back to the Joseon Dynasty. The rush and hecticness of the city fall away as you explore the narrow alleys and intricate details of the traditional Korean houses called "hanok". People wander around you dressed in high-waisted, A-line dresses called Hanbok's- they are bright and colorful. You are lost in another time, but fantasies don't last forever and the woman wearing the hanbok pulls out a selfie stick and you're transported back to the present.

For my first full day in Seoul I wanted to do as much exploration as possible. Thankfully the Bukchon Hanok village is situated in between the two main palaces. Word of advice Google maps does not work for street by street directions. It was able to tell me where the bus would pick me up and drop me off, however, I had to navigate the winding streets around my hostel to get there.

I walked over 9 miles in total my first day, but it was worth it because the village was originally created to house nobility and high-ranking government officials. And you can really see the majesty in these houses through the intense attention to detail. Despite years of wear and tear the attention paid was so clear.

As I wandered around the village I stumbled across this street art that took up the bottom portion of a large wall. I wasn't sure if it was history lesson from the Joseon Dynasty or some kind of protest art.

Besides taking photos and exploring the maze that makes up this village I highly suggest everyone find the Bukchon Hanok Observatory. From there you can see the roofs of all the houses and the beautiful patterns they made. Looking south you can see the roofs of these hundred year old houses and how the blend into modern city, looking north and the hanok's fade off into the base of the mountain.

Exploring the history of Seoul through this village was the perfect introduction to Seoul, a city that blends so seamlessly the past, present, and future. Make sure you subscribe below so you never miss an addition to the Archive!

Busan

June 16, 2017 Ceraun Loggins

After spending a month and a half in Tokyo I was ready for a change in scenery. I've grown used to the flow of the city: waiting for trains, walking home, deciphering kanji on the menus of ramen restaurants. Living in Tokyo a part of my routine; one of the hardest and most life-changing routines I've had to develop but routine none the less.

The best way to appreciate the space you live in daily is to take a break from it. When DC became too monotonous I would take a trip to NYC to clear my head. Now that I'm in Tokyo a quick jaunt to South Korea is how I'll re-ground myself.

Originally my goal was to travel to Thailand, but after discovering how hot it becomes in April I decided that the temperate climate of South Korea would be better for my aesthetic. Instead of flying from Tokyo to Seoul I decided to take the ferry from Fukuoka to Busan instead. This way I could squeeze two extra cities into my trip.

Busan is the second largest city in South Korea and is thought of as Korea's San Francisco. While there the city was building frantically as its the home of the 2030 World Expo.

The first thing I noticed in Busan and later Seoul is the sheer number of sculptures I have never seen so many statues and sculptures around a city as I have while traveling through South Korea and I'm from DC.

I felt awkward navigating around this foreign culture and new language. But at the same time, I felt alive. Nowhere did this contradiction feel more literal then inside a restaurant. The first picture above is the restaurant I ate after checking into my hostel. The first time I saw the prices on the menu I audibly gasped before I realized that the currency was Won instead of Yen. For comparison, one thousand yen is ten dollars whereas, ten thousand won is 8 dollars. I ate this thick pork bone soup that was popular in the south along with the delicious side dishes called banchan.

The next day before I caught my bus I wondered the downtown area and found another restaurant. I ordered a soup and some dumplings. The soup was bright red with chunks of meat and vegetables. I realized after gulping down half the soup that it was so red not because it was seasoned with Kim chi but because it was deep and intensely spicy. The number one thing I missed in Japan was spicy food and while Japan was lacking the Koreans live for spicy food. I just wish I had been prepared because I started sweating so much that the lady who owned the shop was seriously concerned about me.

The timing of this trip was perfect because, as I sat on the ferry about to leave Japan, I realized I had started to feel at home in Tokyo. After feeling so sad and confused my first few weeks I wasn't sure I would come to love Tokyo. However, as the ferry zipped me across the Sea of Japan all I could think about was how I couldn't wait to return.

Busan is a city rich with history, art, and culture. I definitely need to come back and explore more of the city. But with only 24 hours between when the ferry dropped me off at the harbor and a bus would whisk me away to Seoul, I could really only explore the downtown business district.

The view from my bus to Seoul. Make sure you subscribe so you don't miss my adventures in Seoul and all my additions to the archive.

Senso-ji Temple

April 11, 2017 Ceraun Loggins

Incense smoke wafts out of the jokoro and over your body in a ritual act that’s been performed at the temple for the last four hundred years. The jokoro sits directly in front of the main hall of the Senso-ji Temple and is a place for you to purify your body before entering the sacred ground completed in 628- the oldest in Tokyo. The temple is dedicated to Guanyin, the Buddhist Goddess of mercy.

Coming to Japan was an act of purification I didn’t know I needed. Far away from all of my comforts, there was nothing left for me to hide behind. And in that stillness, I grew more connected to my passion and what drew me to travel in the first place even though I had to cry to get there.

The first thing that greets you on your way towards the temple is the Kaminarimon, the Thunder Gate. A great red lantern with a dragon carved on the bottom hangs in between to statues of the gods of Thunder and Wind. I was surprised to learn that the statues present are restorations of the original.

Past the first gate is a market that has existed almost as long as the temple itself with some of the stalls operated by the same family for over 100 years. The street crowded and full of sweets, gifts, and paraphernalia is called Nakamise-Dori.

Towards the end lies the second gate the Hozomon which again was destroyed twice since it was built in 942.

The temple and the Nakamise-Dori aren't the only things to enjoy while exploring this site of rich history.

There are so many additional shrines and gardens and statues that dot the area. There are shrines dedicated to the people who built the temple. Statues that remember the service of important women from Japanese history.

Once you are off the main strip you get to enjoy the more quiet side of this Buddhist temple. There's a shaded area off to the left that I sat at while eating a Japanese sweet bread filled with ice cream. I thought about how the temple and its many parts have been destroyed so many times the most damaging being the air raids during WWII. But in the spirit of rebirth and peace, they were crafted anew. I hope that everyone who comes to this shrine dedicated to mercy leaves with compassion and forgiveness in their hearts, the same way I did.

I always say as long as you learn from your experiences then you should never regret them. I learned so much in my sadness that I rediscovered a happiness I haven't felt in years. I can't wait to continue to share the happy memories I'm making here in Tokyo!

The Hozomon Gate  and jokoro as seen from the temple. — The Hozomon Gate and jokoro as seen from the temple.

Week 1 in Tokyo

March 29, 2017 Ceraun Loggins

I woke up in Tokyo but my body still thought I was on the east coast. After an 18 hour flight, numerous time zone changes, and almost missing my connection in Beijing I had finally arrived in the city of my dreams minus one of my checked bags.

My first night was spent in a hotel because the hostel I was staying in ended check in after my flight landed. The only thing open at midnight after I navigated the sprawling Japanese railway system was 7/11 though I didn't care because I was hungry for something other then tiny airport meals. I was quite surprised by how much better the quality of food was in Tokyo verses the states.

After a brief nights sleep I went to go check into my hostel. There is so much to see in Tokyo and even during the brief walk I was inundated with sights and smells. Every inch of this city is packed with something visually interesting.

The hostel I checked into was the Irori Hostel and Kitchen located in Nihonbashi a little west of Chiyoda. Irori is named after the traditional Japanese fireplace hidden in the tables that dot the entrance. I choose this because it seemed to represent a more authentic introduction to Japan. The staff was so nice and helpful with all my questions. Irori has two lounges and a kitchen you can prepare your own meals, they even cook a traditional Japanese breakfast if you order one the night before. The bunk beds were comfortable and the most privacy I've ever had while in a shared hostel. Next time you go to Tokyo I highly suggest you stay there.

My first taste of Japanese food was some miso soup and some delicious fried chicken at Torigen a quick walk from Irori. The texture of the fried chicken was lighter than the southern recipes I’m used to with a much more subtle flavor which allowed the taste of the chicken to really shine.

I'll admit I was extremely intimidated by the Tokyo railway system of which there are 158 lines owned by 58 different companies. Thankfully the Pasmo card which you can get upon arrival at the airport allows you to hop between them as if they are all owned by the same. Once you ride it once it becomes a much more simple beast especially since there are many signs and announcements made in English.

What you do need to be careful about is the final train. Tokyo's expansive network of trains suspend service around midnight depending on where you are in the city. Unlike DC, where the train system flushes itself out, Tokyo's transit will just stop at whatever station and force you to get out. You would think that taxi's and uber's would rush to fill in that market but no. Taxi's can be as costly as $100 for a distance that would only be $15-20 in DC. So people stay out in Tokyo till 5am.

I explored a lot in my first week, and my future blog posts will all be dedicated to one of the 23 wards. Two things made my first week very hard. The first was that I arrived in Tokyo for 3 months but only had accommodation for the first week. I trusted in the universe that I would find a place and while it all worked out through Tokyo Room Finder and I now live in Shinjuku I'll tell you that Tokyo did not make it easy. For one, there isn't really a culture of shared living in your 20's and 30's that exists in so much of the United States. If you want a communal living environment I suggest checking out Borderless House.

The second thing that made my first week difficult was that I was really lonely. The research said Japan is a difficult country to make friends in. I considered myself the kind of person who can and has traveled places by myself. But when it actually hit me as I walked down the streets of Roppongi that I was really by myself- I couldn't help but cry. I let the feeling wash over me fully because it's something that everyone who travels solo feels. Tokyo is one of the hardest beasts to master and as my first destination I was taking on quite a challenge. Almost every other place I travel too should be much easier. After the tears dried I felt more certain than ever that I was where I was supposed to be. I was taking the time to focus on my art and live outside my comfort zone in a city I always dreamed of living. I came to Tokyo to grow and flourish is what I will do here.

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SF/ Chinatown

March 19, 2017 Ceraun Loggins

The streets were slick with rain but they didn’t stop us or the umbrella’d masses from exploring San Francisco's Chinatown. Which makes sense considering it is the largest Chinatown outside of Asia as well as the oldest in North America.

After a quick bite of a clay pot dish we went looking for the Peace Heart Doctor Banksy artwork that lines the walls of one of the many alleyways in Chinatown. We couldn’t find it, the address is 720 Grant Ave, but what we did stumble across was a fortune cookie factory.

Now as someone who can’t stand the taste of fortune cookies I have to say that fresh cookies taste infinitely better than the ones that you receive in a restaurant.

For 50 cents we were allowed to snap photos inside the factory.

Despite my new appreciation for the creation of these cookies I'm still traumatized by the last fortune I got which told me I was not being paranoid enough.

We kept exploring down the maze of alleyways and discovered another cool handmade desert by the name of Dragon's Hair. Think of it as the Chinese take on cotton candy.

This delicious desert can be ordered at Dragon Papa 752 Grant Ave.

I exited Chinatown and made my way to Oakland wondering what other cool foods I would discover during my travels.

L.A. Museums

January 31, 2017 Ceraun Loggins

The soft echo of footsteps bounce off the walls of the museum- a sound I know all too well. Being from DC, museums are everywhere and I have come to enjoy the world-class art my city has to offer. Museums can tell you a lot about a city as long as you ask the right questions. Where are the museums located? Are they free? Whose stories are being told? In DC most of the museums are free. However, in LA almost all of the museums having some kind of fee, which I found to be surprising. Check out http://www.welikela.com/ for their monthly list of free museum days, so you can be sure to see great art on a budget.

The first free museum day took me to The Getty. High on a hill, overlooking the rest of the city is where this mammoth art center lies. A graceful tram carries you from the parking lot around the hill to a stunning view of the city. LA fell below me just as rush hour was in full swing.

I wasn't prepared for how large The Getty's campus was there is a sculpture and rose garden in addition to the five main buildings.

My favorite exhibit was Latent Exposures. This photography exhibition showcased multipart photographic works. I was particularly enamored with the photography of William Leavitt seen below, and Liza Ryan.

The next museum I ended up at was the Los Angeles County Museum of Art, LACMA. An iconic museum known for its insta worthy Urban Light installation. LACMA struck me by how tactile the museum was. There were so many ways you could physically interact with the space. One of their exhibitions was an exploration of Native Art through Mexico and South America. The standard white box gallery space was shaped to look like red and tan rocks undulating in a cabin.

The final museum was The Museum of Contemporary Art, MOCA. It was a rainy day in LA and I was not in the mood. The spell was immediately lifted in Mickalene Thomas’s exhibit Do I Look Like a Lady. Two large screens grabbed my attention, they played on a loop, images of black female performers the audio and visuals no longer in sync. I became joyous seeing the visuals of Josephine Baker with the comedy of Mo'Nique. The setting was similar to my grandmothers living room. Rugs decorated the floor; comfy chairs lounged against a wall; books were scattered across the room. Mickalene’s work centers a complex meditation on black female identity and how they are represented in the media. Something that I am trying to do in my photography project BlackFemmeMagic.

While I do believe D.C. has some of the best museums in this country, I have to say LA has a great scene. The most ludicrous part was that I didn’t even make it to some of the other institutions like the Broad. No trip to LA is complete without viewing the abundant and enriching museum scene.

Dreams and Cardigans

January 24, 2017 Ceraun Loggins

"Hopped off the Plane at LAX with a dream and my cardigan," A wise philosopher once spoke those words. As the plane began its descent into LA they rang like a song in my head. When I graduated from college, I faced a dilemma. I could either move to LA and chase my dreams to become an artist or take the practical route get a job and wear cardigans year round because cubicle temperatures hover below freezing. Surprisingly I took the practical route and four years later I am now able to travel the world and dedicate 100% of my time to my creative process. Coming to LA was surreal for me because I always imagined myself living in this city.

I exited LAX and into the car of a friend from Amsterdam who whisked me to Hollywood so I could settle in and grab some food. The very first thing I noticed was the sheer reliance on cars and while everyone tries to make the experience better. I couldn’t help but feel passenger-seat road rage due to the fact that rush hour is a 24/7 affair.

After grabbing a bite to eat we wondered around Hollywood.

My friend and I went back to where I was staying and talked. Those small intimate moments are the ones I’m going to miss the most when I’m abroad. There’s nothing more comfortable then talking with a friend you’ve known for multiple years. Part of me is really sad that I'm going to miss those moments with people I really care about. However, while I will be missing out on small moments with old friends I will be creating new memories and connections while abroad.

By the end of the first week, I had fallen in love with LA, even though my friends expected me to hate it. In truth- I expected to hate it as well. I imagined a city full of fake people the same way people imagine D.C. as a city full of stuffy bureaucrats. LA has a large and vibrant culture from the beautiful area of Little Tokyo.

To the holiday office party I went to with my friend Brooke who graciously housed me during my stay.

LA Surprised me and in a lot of ways, I surprised myself. I went to California as a test before my move to Tokyo. As you will see from my upcoming posts I think I aced it. Subscribe so you won't miss any more of my LA adventures.

Haus of Jung

January 19, 2017 Ceraun Loggins

There’s something so lovely about old friendships dovetailing with new passions. I first met Natalia in college. She lived on the same floor as people I knew from DC.

We were both so different then that I can’t even believe where we are now. The path towards growth doesn’t always take the direction you anticipated. She’s weaving her love of psychology into an accessories line called Haus of Jung. While I am taking my knowledge on gender, philosophy, and race and weaving it into every image I make. I guess what they say is true; a liberal arts education applies to everything you do.

I went to New York before my birthday and got a chance to see Natalia in her studio. The light was so gorgeous and soft. I almost didn’t bring my camera with me. But I’m so happy that I did.

What I loved the most was the small details in her studio for example the vintage sewing machine with the dried flowers.

What started off as a chill session turned into a photo-shoot with our mutual friend from college Sejan. Her line has really gorgeous hats along with fanny packs and custom made pieces. Definitely follow her on Instagram and support the amazing work she is doing by commissioning a piece or two. You will definitely be hearing a lot more about her in the future.